Scotland

Bonnie wee Scotland!

An epic, rugged land across the border from England. My vision of Scotland has been fed by many stereotypes; deep fried Mars Bars, deep fried pizza, in fact deep fried anything. That’s even before the cringe-worthy creation of haggis and all of that pointless huntin’, shootin’ and fishin’ which seems to beset its countryside.

So when we set out on a 10 day trip to Scotland (the Outer Hebrides no less) we literally took two coolers packed to the rafters with fake meats, tofu and protein-filled treats. On our journey up to the Outer Hebrides we politely asked at a hotel (The Bosville Hotel – see below for more details) on an overnight stop if we could store our fake meat bonanza in their fridge. They kindly obliged. Upon checkout the receptionist asked where we were going. ‘To a Berneray’, I said. ‘Ah’, she said, ‘they do have food on Berneray you know, no one’s starved on Berneray for a good number of years!’ I explained my veganism thinking that would clear things up but instead she gave a wry smile as if to say, no vegan has starved yet on Berneray either.

Later that evening in the small town of Portree on the Isle of Skye we happened upon a small café (Central Café – see below for more details) which advertised veggie haggis and a few other veggie delights. After chatting to the owner it turned out that she and her family were vegetarian and ran their cafe as omnivorous so as to appeal widely to the passing tourist trade. We decided to give it a try for dinner and I gorged on veggie haggis and vegan chili. Not what I had expected in the rural Highlands and Islands! In fact, the haggis was so good that it inspired me to try and make it for myself (watch this space for a recipe coming soon!).

The wonderful Veggie Haggis with neeps & tatties

The vegetarian surprises kept coming. The next day on a Caledonian MacBrayne ferry we were famished and ready for some food. I plonked myself down in the cafe onboard fully ready for a feast of chips and onion rings. They did have chips and onion rings but to my surprise they also had a Quorn branded veggie burger, a veg curry, a vegetarian full Scottish breakfast among various other things. So, even the Scottish ferry system catered well to vegetarians; things were getting interesting.

We arrived on the small island of Berneray connected to the Uist archipelago by a recent road causeway. Immediately, we knew why we’d come all this way. The beauty and the sheer scale of the beauty were just awe inspiring.

The biggest, most dramatic skies

The whiteest, softest, cleanest beaches

So, this was the place where the receptionist had assured me they had plenty of food. A trip to the only food store on the island should clear that up. To my delight, the shop was stocked to the rafters with a huge variety of goodies. You had the opportunity to rustle up a Thai feast, an Indian banquet or an Italian dinner party- an all manner of different ingredients did abound. The folk of Berneray indeed would not starve, and in fact with this selection, could even give Delia Smith a run for her money. And then I saw it- Quorn sausages in the small chest freezer (several bags!). And then the soya milk came into view, and behold, even almond milk! It occurred to me then that my preconceptions were founded on my travels around England, where you could struggle to find any of these things in some stores in much bigger towns. It became clear that Scotland was different. Instead, Scotland was coming up trumps at every turn.

Ok, maybe this little store was a fluke. So when we then travelled to the local (and only) store in Lochmaddy, North Uist, surely they wouldn’t be as veg friendly? No freezer section here but several different flavours of Alpro desserts were on offer as well as non-dairy milks!

Proof of vegan products in the Outer Hebrides

In the end, it turned out that we didn’t starve, just as the receptionist had predicted, after all, we did have two coolers full of fake meats in our car boot! But seriously, even in the Outer Hebrides you needn’t worry as a vegetarian. Even if you haven’t brought a boot full food, you will still be able to find options to cook up a storm.
On our way to and from the Outer Hebrides, we had the honour of travelling through some marvellous scenes of pure spectacle. Mountains, waterfalls, pine forests, glistening lochs, it all came thick and fast.
If you’re in the West Highlands on your travels, there are a couple of places I’d highly recommend. The first, just outside Fort William, sits in the strongly undulating foothills of the Nevis Range of mountains. The Ben Nevis Inn (see below for more details) is a hikers and hipsters paradise. A wonderful aspect, beautiful location and very funky mountain-climbing vibe inside, this pub-cum-music-venue-cum-bunk-house offers several good vegetarian options and even has vegan options clearly labelled on the menu.

A veggie pit stop at the foot of Ben Nevis

The Ben Nevis Inn basking in sunlight

We were lucky enough to have some great afternoon sunshine when we arrived and heartily tucked into a veggie burger while gazing out to the mountains and listening to some great tunes. Ok, the veggie burger wasn’t going to win any prizes for the best or most nutritious, but it was there on the menu and was an option for a hungry and weary vegan traveller. For that, they get full marks.
The second place of note that we visited sits on the banks of Loch Awe just outside Oban in Argyll & Bute. This is the luxury retreat, the travellers rest, the crown in your journey. A mere 9 miles off the A85 along a very narrow single-track road (limited passing places!) you’ll find The Ardanasaig Hotel. A 19th Century country house that’s been converted into a wonderful small, boutique hotel, the Hotel Ardanasaig (see below for more details) has the charm of rural Scotland that you’ve been looking for. The hotel itself, I have to say, I’ve stayed in better, but when they’re this cute all is forgiven. However, where the Ardansaig really shone was the food. Particularly, being able to cater for any dietary requirement (with some notice).

Sunset over Lock Awe at Ardanaseig Hotel

I admit, I did give Scotland a hard time in my preconceptions, and this turned out to be unwarranted. We travelled extensively through some very remote areas of The Isles and Western Highlands and I was mightily impressed by the proliferation, understanding and options available. Having said that, we did take a lot of niche products with us, which made things easier from a self-catering perspective, especially when you factor in the added layer of veganism.

The bottom line is that if you look (thankfully, not too hard) you will travel well and easily as a veggie in Scotland. If you’re going for a longer periods of time in the same place, things might get a little samey but I reckon when you experience the sheer wonder of the scenery, you’ll forget all about any food gripes and just fall in love with the place, just like we did.

A homage to Hebridean roads

Where we ate

Central Cafe

Bayfield Lane, Portree, Isle of Skye, Scotland IV51 9EL

What I enjoyed:
– the supremely delicious vegetarian haggis with neeps and tatties. (Can be made vegan by omitting the whisky sauce)
– the friendly, family run warmth and atmosphere.
– the great value for money

Ben Nevis Inn

Claggan, Fort William PH33 6TE Scotland
Website here: http://www.ben-nevis-inn.co.uk/

What I enjoyed:
– the spectacular view and hip surroundings
– decent veg options that are clearly labelled including labelling vegan options (the staff were fully aware of what vegan was)
– friendly and welcoming

Top tip:
The postcode on your satnav will end somewhere short of the pub- stay your course down the single track road and the Inn is right at the end of the track (ample parking)

The Crown Inn

Stornoway, Isle of Lewis

What I enjoyed:
– a couple of decent veg options
– central location
– felt a bit more up market than the other pubs in the vicinity

The Little Potting Shed Cafe

5 John Street, Oban, Argyll & Bute PA34 5NS Scotland
Happycow here: http://www.happycow.net/reviews/the-little-potting-shed-cafe-oban-62768

What I enjoyed:
– a fantastic owner who believes in what she’s doing and doing a great job
– amazing selection of vegan cakes!
– offered very flexible take away options

Top tip:
– when we were there the proprietor had only recently taken over and the cafe still had the ‘Carolyn’s Cafe’ sign in place
– the cafe is just off George Street down a small alley street. There is a restaurant called Coast on George Street that marks the turning.

Ardanaiseig Hotel

What I enjoyed:
– amazing vegan Tasting Menu (pre-book) that was well thought out and incredibly delicious
– huge wine menu (though quite pricey)
– formal but friendly service

Top tip:
– definitely book ahead for your special dietary requirement
– I’d recommend combining dinner with a stay in the hotel as the 9 mile single track road could be a challenge at night- and also you can enjoy their wine list and great whisky selection of you stay over!

Where we stayed

Bosville Hotel

Portree, Isle of Skye

– a decent hotel
– very central location in Portree
– a good bar with the biggest whisky collection I’ve ever seen!
– I wouldn’t say the best value for money but with a lack of hotel accommodation in Portree (especially in high season), it’s probably worth a punt
– Breakfast: small cold buffet selection of cereals, fruit salad and yoghurt. A hot menu selection that’s made to order. Very limited vegan selection and most veg options involved eggs. I wouldn’t bother with the breakfast again unless it’s included in your room rate with no option to remove it for a rate saving

Lamraig Cottage, Isle of Berneray

This place is a total gem. The find of the decade for me. If you go to the Outer Hebrides then stay here. Alternatively plan a trip to the Outer Hebrides just to stay here.
A 200 hundred year old traditional Hebridean Black House, it’s been lovingly restored by the current owners (who live on the island and will be more than helpful in pointing you in the right direction and making recommendations). Underfloor heating, a wood burning stove, endless hot water, super comfortable bed and eminently livable.
We found it on a cottage rental website, but if you’d like more details, please contact me and I can give you more info.
Seriously. Go and get away from it all. Stay here!

Our retreat for the week

Ardanaseig Hotel
– A truly quaint hotel with lots of history – you’ll really feel you’re in a period drama staying here
– Really friendly service. Nothing too refined, but authentic and friendly
– Great food
– Clean rooms with decent amenities
– Stunning location
– Breakfast: after the wonderful vegan tasting menu the previous evening, breakfast was quite a let down. Very limited cold buffet and a hot menu selection. Very traditional – they didn’t even have baked beans (not sure how traditional that is!). Again, as with the Bosville, I wouldn’t bother with the £16.50 for a breakfast as vegan

Top tip
– The road to this hotel is an experience! It starts off as single track road with regular passing places but then, for the last 3 miles, is a single track road with limited passing places. We were lucky and didn’t encounter many other vehicles, but take and drive slowly, sound your horn a few times and enjoy the wonderful scenery!

The Grand exterior of the Ardanaseig Hotel